Someone is making a killing


Recommended Posts

$99.00 Give me abreak, Shep and I did the mode for about $5.00. If you buy a new handle there only $20.00 and the switch, I used a heavy duty auto type, was $4.00 and about a $1.00 worth of wire. 15 minutes of time. Its a no brainer. I don't think they will sell many, to easy to make them yourself. My thoughts anyway. Grubstake

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably drilled a small hole and pulled the wires through with a small rubber gromet to prevent the metal from cutting the wires. While I haven't don't it. Shep's instructions are very good. I still have a potion of a year left on my warranty. After that Iwill make the conversion providing that Minelab will still service my GP3000 after the modificaiton. But you drill a hole in the top of the handle and mount a push buttton switch with a dap of epoxy or a couple of set screws from the side and route the wires through to bottom of the handle and down the shaft.

Selling it isn't a bad idea, but mounting the switch isn't the scary or hard part of the project. It is getting the courage up to open the case and fuss with the wiring. And that isn't reallya challenge. It is about a hard as wiring a light swith in ones house. My concern is will Minelab service the unit after the modification is made.

Anyone have any information on that?

I could see him selling them for $35 or $40 but not $99. He'd have to do the install and pay for shipping back and even then I doubt it anyone would pay more than $60.

Even at the labor rates that are being charged for auto repairs here in Houston at $80/hour.

That would only be $20 labor and $25 for parts. That comes to $45.

Not counting to and from shipping.

Yep $45 is this pain threshold.

Add to that say $40 bucks to send and return the unit and that makes it $85.

Cheaper to just buy the handle and if you aren't the electrical type, find a CB repair shop and have them do the install.

I hope he hasn't bought too many.

Regards

Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shep sent his detector in to Minelab usa and they did not have a problem with the mode he had done. You really don't have to drill a hole for the wires, once you open the front of the case open, you an see more switch holes, than switchs. The decal on the plate covers them up, so you can just pick an empty spot and punch a small hole through with a nail, in one of the empty switch holes. Not hard at all. you don't even have to cut the wires to the switch, just peel the insulation back and solder them. thats what I did. Grubstake

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Grubstake!

Thanks.

I have to get some of my maps laminated this afternoon. I'm going to get the switches and make the mod this weekend. I'm coming out over Thanksgiving and it would be nice to have this mod.

Appreciate the tips!

Regards

Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I can understand the price from a manufacturing viewpoint. In fact I think it's a fare price for those not accustomed to tinkering for themselves.

Decent quality momentary switch = $8 to $15 in qty's under 1k.

Grip hard costs including parts and labor to assemble strap and adjustment buckle = $25 - $35 in same qty's.

Packaging = $2

Overhead including expendables, insurance, management labor for taxes/book keeping, web site and advertising amortized between 1K of product = $3 to $5 each.

Total hard costs = $38 to $57 each.

He likely isn't doing it for practice and would like to make some money. If he plans on distributing to a retailer ever the retailer will want a minimum of 30% and of course he would still like to make something, so another 30% is pretty average.

Final retail price from $64.22 - $96.33.

Also keep in mind that a 30% mark up is a minimum amount charged by any retailer these days just to carry an item. With a small qty item such as this the normal markup is much greater and often over 100%.

Now to do a very nice job of it yourself without all the worries of being sued for toasting somebody's $3000 detector, worrying about the durability of the components, warranties, labor etc, you could do it yourself for much, much less. I have done several for buddy's in our plant for alot less but there just isn't the volume out there for someone to offer it cheap, cheap. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some one still has to mount the 1/8 inch socket on the face plate and make the connection to the switch inside the unit. The $99 was just for the momentary switch mounted in the new handle with the rest of the parts for the buyer to do the install.

Features:

* Push the Gold Button balance and GO!!

* Never Flip that Switch Again!

* Extra Tough, Long Lasting

* Water Resistant Button

* Easy to Install

* Thick Comfortable Cushion Grip

* True One-Handed Strap

* Adjustable Strap

* Left or Right Handed Position

Making up the switch in the handle is the least technically challenging part of the process. I agree with your strategy for coming up with the price.

I went out this afternoon and got the parts. I had bought an extra handle a couple of months ago to make the mod...just had not gotten the other parts.

Here is the list:

Radio Shack numbers

42-2434 6 feet shielded Audio Cable 1/8"mono miniplug to tinned ends $3.99

274-0251 Pckage oif 3 1/8" MOno phone Jack (2-conductor open circuit Panel mount) $3.99

275-646 SPSTMomentary Pushbutton Switch (Round Red Button 3A at 125VAC;1.5A at 250VAC$2.29

Total Radio Shack expence of $11.00 (But I have 2 left over Phone Jacks as spares)

And $20.00 for the extra handle.

$31.00 not counting sales tax on the Radio Shack purchases.

Most people would probably use their original handle.

Regards

Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Karl,

I applaud you're ingenuity and PLEASE don't mis-interpret this reply in any way as ridicule. Its not meant that way at ALL!

The parts you have chose to purchase for the mod are of the lowest quality available. While they may work for a while they do not compare in the slightest to parts that an OEM manufacturer such as ourselves should consider. Tandy stock ain't doing so well for a reason. Now I assure you I have no clue what the guy linked to is using for parts, he would be a total idiot messing around with the warranties of multi-thousand dollar detectors unless his instructions are absolutely complete and his parts top notch. I would urge you to consult Digi-Key or even better NKK for your switch as well as jack's. Any and ALL switch's Tandy sells are total junk and prone to ringing (http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/287). Now I haven't looked in detail into the ML's protections, but it is very possible that switch bounce could be a major issue in the ground balancing circuit. Most high quality parts are made so for good reason. If you have decided on a home brew mod on your multi thousand dollar detector why not spend a couple of extra dollars on quality parts. By all means still handle the labor and craftsmanship yourself but you will be much happier down the road by spending the extra price of a fast food meal now in parts.

While I'm on the soap box, LOL... I would also recommend potting the switch and it's connection in place as well as some well placed heat shrink. In the event of a warranty return you would much prefer the initial tech to open it and say. "golly gee look what this guy did", then "holly crap batman, send this guy a bill".

I am only offering advice and not ridiculing anyone. Using ones ingenuity is what made America great so go for it whatever you chose! I only mean to offer my experiance to help in the mod.

Good luck!

EDIT... Also I would not use a mono phono jack for the connection. Consider a stereo jack so you can isolate both contacts. Again I have not reverse engineered Minelab's boards but tying the wrong trace to chassis ground could smoke something. Just something to consider...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shadow, can't remember who originally came up with the idea, but told grubby about it. He did it first in this area. When I did mine, I used the radio shack switch, but mounted my switch forward. The little red cap fell off the second or third trip out, leaving the little white plunger. Been using it for better than a year and absolutely no problems. I made a couple of extras up for emergencies, but never had to use them. Where we hunt, the ground is very,very irregular, ground balance wise. I ground balance whenever there is a variance. Before I would put up with the variation for quite a bit before flipping the switch. No telling what I missed? Best mod out there, other than buying a new minelab, for sure!

As for doing it for someone else, with their machine, you bet, use a "high dollar switch", but the RS works just fine, especially without the red button! On that note; some of the places we hunt are so brushy, I've had twigs change my settings (raise my threshold, switch my switch to cancel, shut my machine off, ect ect). The little white plunger is protected by the rubber grip, but available any time it's needed.

Just my $.02 worth!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also did the mod about a year ago after seeing Sheps at RP. The 1st swx I used from radio shack would make a boinging sound when released :D Like Shadow said, use a good swx when you do the mod, otherwise it works awesome especially nice here in the variable grounds of the Motherload.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Shadow, Shep and Wes!

I love the input. And no offense taken. I agree, the last thing I want to do is to screw up my 3000. I want to enhance my units performance ability not hamper it. So my thoughts are: "If there is a better way!

Show it to me! I'd rather be enlightened!" and have options!" :)

The ingenuity is not mine though! I'm just trying to improve on and implement what others "Shep And Grubstake and who ever else" has worked on this modification before me.

I can take no credit at all except maybe to tweak here and there. :)

I like the idea of the OEM switch and other components instead of RS. And the same with the other recommendations make a lot of sense.

Thanks for the links.

I am planning on Drilling out the top of the extra grip to mount the switch into the handle, running the shielded cable into the handle up to the switch and then down the handle to the shaft and then into the case.

I also know what you mean with not reground balancing with the ML GB switch when I should have. It is mounted in a poor location and just cumbersome to use.

Here is a question for general comment. The 3500 has the GB switch on the handle and of course that is tied in through the diagnostics port. And it also has the turning circuit. What is this circuit and is it something that can also be a modification for the 3000?

Just a question not sure I'd want to actually do the mod unless it is nothing more than a potentiometer.

Shadow do you have any part numbers for the parts you mentioned?

Thanks

Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the idea of the OEM switch and other components instead of RS. And the same with the other recommendations make a lot of sense.

Here is a question for general comment. The 3500 has the GB switch on the handle and of course that is tied in through the diagnostics port. And it also has the turning circuit. What is this circuit and is it something that can also be a modification for the 3000?

Just a question not sure I'd want to actually do the mod unless it is nothing more than a potentiometer.

Shadow do you have any part numbers for the parts you mentioned?

Thanks

Karl

Karl,

Here is a page link with good quality switch choices. The sealed switches near bottom of page would be my personal choices to keep dust and crap out but they are pricey. We use a lot of NKK parts and are very happy with them.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/627/1275.pdf

Start here for the jacks. http://www.mouser.com/catalog/627/892.pdf.

Keep in mind that in electronic parts you do get what you pay for!

Mouser are easy to do business with and ship quick.

I don't know about the other mod you asked about and sold my 3000 years back. The guy that bought it down under mentioned he was going to do a bunch of mods to it. He said something about working on the boards to make it into an extreme but thats all I know about it.

Good luck...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Shadow! Thanks

I appreicate the information.

What are you using to prospect with now?

Regards

Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a 2100V2 I have modded to be totally cordless. I mostly hunt extremely brushy area's and just hate the constant cord grabs I used to get. I still have the headphones ripped off my head a lot but its better than it was. A problem I have been having with it lately is the "unloading" blast I get from the detector shortly after I set it down to dig a target. With the gain turned up on the headphones that dang noise blast hurts. Anyone know how to stop it other than keep it moving constantly?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Grubstake and all,

I believe you are talking about the mod. I originally put together for the GPX a year or so ago. If you remember right I posted the pictures of the finished product. I also posted an attachment with the instructions. Thought of charging but couldn't bring myself to do it. Kind of late for someone to try to outdoo the newer equipment that is now on the market. Anyway---- Onion Gold, Northern Ca.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share