A quick drywasher question


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I used the canvas off a folding chair. Have used other canvas materials and found that a backing, plastic/rubber keeps it from getting strings when you work with it. Use the old one to trace the new one out. I sew the pockets by hand. You can contact Thompson mfg. and buy one from them. Good luck I like my puffer

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Take a sample to a material/sewing store.

If its the bellows, then most likely a thin vinal material will work.

Tom H.

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Lotta bloke here in WA use 6oz canvas and wet it down real good once you've

cut it to size before fitting it on mate.

The wetting is important as when the canvas dries slowly it seals the bellows.

I'm not fully up to speed with your dryblower model, any chance of a quick photo or 2 of it ??

Pete

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Forgot to add Bob

Most blokes here in WA do with the right geo conditions on finer gold like to run their "Puff Puff's" on 60 - 90 Puffs a minute.

What sort of speeds do a few of yous like to run the small 3x1 ft puffers.

We now have water rights to pump from a large ex mine pit and scrape to 4 meters, so its a wet plant for me.

This weekend we will be just detecting it and maybe bag some rock chip and stream sediment samples for some sampling.

Pete

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Pete

I have not used a drywasher in years but when I did I used a gasoline blower/vac for the air off of a vacume also to suck the material out of the cracks in bedrock.

so I really cant answer on the puffer speed?. As far as the Cordura it is a very durable material. I have a pair of waist high snake chaps made out of it that I have had for years and there still holding up very well.

They are hot to wear because they dont breath, (leak air) well at all. AzNuggetBob

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Well... what a great variety of answers... all can be right. :) .. drywashing is really an inexact

subject that has been kicked around the campfires for over 100 years. Each user claiming

his the best. But one thing for sure the dirt must be dry and the tilt of the bellows box is

more critical as it somewhat determines the bellows speed. Other factors are the amount

of "lumps" of clay and other "balls" of dirt. They can cause any gold within them to wind up

in the riffle tailings.

Articles and books can, and have been, written on drywashing. But we need to keep in mind

that the early washers were made (handcrafted) with whatever material was available in

the camps... levis, wool shirts, powder box's, screens from old screen doors, salvaged boot

tacs and other local available material... Make and can-do!.

I can well remember "Dragline" Miller admonishing my dad "Grub is short, tip up the riffle

tray and shovel faster." This was back about 1937 at the 'Hogum" claim in Oceola Nevada

and Dragline was turning the crank.

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Canvas? are you serious?? Hows the recovery with that?

Are you talking about the bellows material? or the riffle? Canvas works fine on the bellows and my recovery is strong. For the riffles I use muslin.
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