Hip Stick Modification

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Hello all, I believe I have made improvements to the hipstick process and would like to share them with you all. I have noticed that the hipstick belt ball anchor portion on the waist is uncomfortable and unstable as well. The enclosed picture is a hipstick ball anchor cut in half and screwed on to a Paddle Holster, A Paddle Holster is a concave shaped piece of plastic or stiffened leather designed to be worn against the body inside of the pants. It seems to work well as a gun holster, so I decided to try it on a hipstick setup. Las Vegas had a gun show not too long ago and I bought a paddle without the holster, price $10.00 dollars. I drilled a hole threw the hipstick ball anchor as you can see in the picture and glued it on as well. After finally having a chance to take it out in the field for the first time today here is the preliminary report. The (paddle hip) is EXTREMELY stable, the old version slides back and forth or longitudinally, since there is more surface area and concave to distribute the load to you hip it stays in place and is more comfortable as well. The only bad side I can find this early is the hipstick is mounted lower than at belt level, so you will lose about 1.5 to 2 inches in height so you sick will be a little bit shorter. The epoxy did not hold but the screw did. The epoxy may not do well with this kind of plastic. As for the hole that is drilled threw the front to the back so you can use a hex head tool to tighten the anchor ball to the paddle. I noticed I can drive the truck now with the paddle hip still on my hip with little discomfort as well. Also I have noticed it works better with a belt as you can see in the picture included. Guido




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Hello Chris...Thanks for the complement...Can you or someone you know make these units in mass? That would really help out the folks...I bought the paddle from Paradigm Corp. (Tactical Gear) Mr Wesley Chin...702 395-5321. I asked for just the paddle and he hook me up. Maybe they could be bought in a lot or something like that...Just food for thought...Guido

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You'll find carbon arrow shafts (Beman and Easton) even cheaper and almost the right length. You'd also find them at kite flying stores since they took componentry over for their sport. Arrows also have screw/glue in components (eg. nocks and blunt points). The only thing is that to cut the arrows, you'll either have to have a high speed rotary saw (eg. Dremel) or ask them to be cut at the shop (do not cut them with a pipe cutter; BTW don't breath the dust). Nocks can be use to run the bungy over, but you'll want to protect the nock end because it represents a serious hazard to your eyes and face.

A cheaper paddle...


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