Reg, check your PM


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Hi Rob,

I got the email you sent to me that indicated it was from Bill Colebeck and I responded to him as the Roadrunners club treasurer, as he stated in the email I got. Now, I copied and and pasted the indicated email address so assure they would get my response. Here is the humor, I got an email back saying the following;

Undeliverable: Roadrunner membership

System Administrator

Your message did not reach some or all of the intended recipients.

Subject: Roadrunner membership

Sent: 1/14/2008 9:08 PM

The following recipient(s) could not be reached:

'gtts193@cox.net.' on 1/14/2008 9:08 PM

None of your e-mail accounts could send to this recipient.

__________________

Well, I responded with all sincerity thinking that maybe the problems I had with them could be cleared up. Instead, I received the above info indicating "none" of my email accounts could send to them.

SO, IT LOOKS LIKE I AM STILL BANNED!!!!!! So much for trying to respond to what I thought was an email from the Roadrunners club and my effort to clear up any misunderstandings by using diplomacy. Obviously, that doesn't work.

Maybe any or all of you reading this could ask them (the RR club) if they can simply tell me just when I initially joined the club. I could probably look at my past checks but that is a pain. This way I will know for sure if I can sell my membership.

BTW, to the Roadrunners club or any of its representatives, my email address is rgsniff@comcast.net.

Reg

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Hi Reg, I read your first post about your treatment by one of the board members. I would be happy to forward your email to the treasurer along with my own choice words for the way you were treated. I'm a life member also and I think I would have been down there pounding on someone's door if I received an email like that. :angry: I know you don't have that luxury being in Colorado so I'd be happy to be your liaison. Pm me if you like. Later...Jim P.

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Hi Jim,

I really appreciate your support, but right now but please, all I really need is for Roadrunners to to simply let me know if I can sell my membership. I bought it at about the time they were changing their bylaws so I am not sure of it was purchased early enough or not.

That is my first priority at this time. Once I know whether it can be sold or not, I will then have to make the decision on whether to sell it or not if I can. I just need to be sure I am honest with people and only sell it if it can be sold should I decide to go that route.

I really do not want anyone else to get sideways with the club because of me. Heck, I almost never go on their claims anyway, so it is no big deal for me. I think I have only been on their claims once or twice in all the years I belonged before they picked up the claims near Rich Hill. I have hunted their claims a little in the RH area in the last few years but I don't need to do that.

Besides, as for my getting sideways with the the one guy from the RR club, I am probably as much to blame as he is. Once he, in my opinion, got rude, I simply tried to match his rudeness, so I am as guilty in many ways. I can get pretty good at that when I want to.

As I mentioned before, my basic issue is on behalf of those paid up members who are on retirement and every dollar counts. When they joined, it was understood, once they were paid up, that would be all. For some people, even $20 can be a fair amount of change. Some people really struggle on a limited income. Most people do not think much of this, but many would be surprised how many people move to Mexico or other foreign areas because of a very limited retirement income. Many people simply can't afford to live here anymore. Heck, I have a friend that is planning on moving out of the country right now for that reason.

As for me, I am still working and probably will continue to work even after I die just to pay off the bills and maintain health insurance. Heck of Ann Landers could continue to work after she died, why can't I?

Reg

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Hi Reg, Bad press works with movie stars, but with mining, bad press lasts forever, I would think that keeping this in mind the Roadrunners group would want to resolve this issue rather than let it run its course? As I understand their by-laws The Board can vote to restrict the sale or transfer of your membership depending on when you joined?? and weather your dues are current. So to all of you that are thinking about joining, make sure you read the fine print. AzNuggetBob

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Hi Bob,

My membership dues are paid in full, so that is a non issue.

You are right about thinking of joining a club and making sure to read the fine print. However, when I joined, there was no fine print to deal with. The fundamental contract was simple. A lifetime membership cost either $1200 or $1500 (I don't remember the exact amount now) and payments were a mere $10 per month. So, rather than try to remember to send in a check each month, I just wrote one for the year and always was paid extra well in advance in case I forgot. When I was nearly paid off, the club offered a discount for a full payment of whatever was still due which I did. That was several years ago and was not a big issue at the time, so I don't remember the exact amount on the final payment.

Now, they have altered the original contract since I joined by adding a new paragraph. So, all new members who sign a contract today are subject to the $20 maintenance fee. That paragraph was not there before the bylaw change. I am not sure just when it was added to the contract. I suspect if it became a legal battle, it would be easy to find out for sure.

Getting back to the exact amount I did pay, isn't it terrible to get old and not be able to remember every check you write or every bill you pay? In my early years, I had a photographic memory. Unfortunately, somewhere along the line I ran out of film.

Reg

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After reading all this stuff Reg, I guess I don't know what to recommend anymore as far as clubs. What a fiasco.

I've witnessed this particular phenomenon that exists in volounteer political structures like homeowners associations. People take these positions which offer no pay, however, they do it for some reason. For some, the reason is "power". They like to be the big cheese and lord over people to whatever degree. The degree in this case is "affairs of the prospectors". :lol: I guess it gives them a boner or something. There's just no helping, or getting around people like that. They are very hard to get rid of, being free of charge and all that. :rolleyes:

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Hi Bob,

I am glad the coil fix worked. You might want to start a new thread and post the problem with the coil and then the fix for others to try should they consider doing it. This problem seems to be more common than people realize. I am sure Grubstakes problem was the same.

BTW how did you end up gluing the housing halves back together? There are several techniques but some of them make it harder to take apart again if it is needed.

Reg

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Hi Rob,

I appreciate your responding to his email since he sent it to you first and asked you to forward it to me. However, as stated, when I tried to respond to that email, I received the response I mentioned earlier that my emails would not reach the person.

So, asking you to send it will, in my opinion, determine whether the person involved was sincere or not.

Thanks again,

Reg

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Hi Bob,

I am glad the coil worked and you enjoy working on them. I haven't tried the glue you mentioned but I do need to look into it.

Many manufacturers bond the two coil housing halves together using a slurry that is made by dissolving some of the coil housing material in MEK or Acetone and adding a coating at the overlap zone. Once this slurry dries it actually fuses the two halves together, making it almost impossible to separate them, especially if a lot of the slurry is used. On many coil forms, the two halves overlap quite a bit so the slurry has a fairly big bonding area. This technique is good if one is trying to make a coil waterproof, but I still like foaming them to make a totally sealed coil. They never come out looking nice since I don't have a good form to hold the halves once the expanding foam is poured in, but they are waterproof.

Now, I use a two part foam that once it is set up, is very solid. The type used for home insulation generally is a little softer, but probably could work ok.

Now that you have figured out how to repair a coil, you really need to try to build one. That can be fun also. If you decide to try to do that, let me know if you need help.

Reg

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Hey Reg, I managed to get an x-acto type knife up under the lip on the coil were the two haves join together to open it up. I had to go around several times before I got it to pop open. The shielding had worked loose from banging on rocks and age in general. I shortened the coax 4" to get rid of that notoriously bad compression nut area, re-soldered and isolated all the connections and re-glued all the shielding. I put it back together with that (new to me) plastic weld glue. That glue is neat stuff its like an epoxy for plastic, has two parts but only about 5-7 minutes working time and does not shrink.. but It has an obnoxious smell until cured. Anyway It passed all my bench testing. Its very solid again, no bump feedback. Very quiet. As far as foam I have used the canned stuff in the past but because of the expansion you almost need breather holes in the coil or it may over expand with that stuff. That reminds me I read somewhere people were drilling holes to repair loose coils, I don't recommend this because if you don't know were to drill you could kill the coil permenently by punching through wires inside. As soon as the glue on the outer casing is completely cured I'm taking it out for field testing. I'm already convinced it is at least as good as new and maybe even a little better?. I changed a couple things as far as how it was originally put together. Thanks again for the help Reg. Oh by the way, I think you should lead a new post on this, I'm fairly new to coil construction but I think I am going to try building some. :) Take care AzNuggetBob

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Hi Guys!

A thread on coil repair would be great! I have a couple of coils that I need to work on. They aren't in production any longer and can't be replaced. If I can't fix them they are lost. They are too good a coil to let go. One needs a new cable(broken from flexing due to hipmounting), the other is loose inside and falses at the least bump or shake (it was used a lot). Any help would be appreciated. I have fixed a couple of noisey coils as per John B's white's goldmaster coil fix. White's had used a styrofoam form on which to wind the coils and as time went by the styrofoam began to disintegrate and the windings become loose causing noise and falsing.

Thanks!

Rattlesnake Jim

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