Minelab GP3000


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I have a chance to pick up a used GP3000 for $1,200. Is this a fair price for the unit? It comes with the stock 11" coil, 14" Nugget Finder Elliptical DD coil, battery, car and wall charger, harness, power cord, Koss UR-30 headphones, Instruction Manual, adjustable bungee cord, AZO camo box and armrest cover. According to the seller it hasn't been used in over a year. He is willing to charge the battery and let me test the unit out. In the event the unit doesn't function,does Minelab still work on these machines? IF it doesn't work and Minelab still repairs them I would be willing to still make an offer of some sort. Thanks in advance.

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If you want to know if M/L services a model call or e-mail them. Get it from the horses mouth.

3000's are still out there gettin the good stuff I know a few that use them regularly.

Even if you had to buy new batterys thats a smokin deal pricewise as long as its in working cond. my 2 cents.

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Hi Chris,

I see you've been posting allot of late, seeking advice and selling quite a few "new" prospecting items.

The reason I say that is you seem like an impulse buyer.

From what I've seen in the classifieds you've taken a loss on quite a few items.

You've likely heard that guns don't kill, people do. The same hold true with detecting.

My advice is to join a prospecting club in your area and spend a few months learning how to use your Eureka Gold and more importantly how to prospect for gold.

As for the 3000 I have one (as a backup) and still use it, but would not recommend one over a GPX. Save your $ for a 5000, join a club and educate yourself.

Respectfully,

Chris Porter

PS

Super tune your Eureka,

Ground balance in all 3 freq. starting at the lowest and ending with the highest.

This method will ensure the most depth and stability.

PPS

Damn you Frank, I spit coffee (laughing) all over my keyboard after reading between the lines of "Get it from the horses mouth"

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Hi Chris,

I see you've been posting allot of late, seeking advice and selling quite a few "new" prospecting items.

The reason I say that is you seem like an impulse buyer.

From what I've seen in the classifieds you've taken a loss on quite a few items.

You've likely heard that guns don't kill, people do. The same hold true with detecting.

My advice is to join a prospecting club in your area and spend a few months learning how to use your Eureka Gold and more importantly how to prospect for gold.

As for the 3000 I have one (as a backup) and still use it, but would not recommend one over a GPX. Save your $ for a 5000, join a club and educate yourself.

Respectfully,

Chris Porter

PS

Super tune your Eureka,

Ground balance in all 3 freq. starting at the lowest and ending with the highest.

This method will ensure the most depth and stability.

PPS

Damn you Frank, I spit coffee (laughing) all over my keyboard after reading between the lines of "Get it from the horses mouth"

Chris,

I respect your candidness, but this is what I have to do to get what I truly would like to have. As great and all-powerful as the 5000's are, I cannot afford to spend $6,000 on a brand new detector. I know they find gold, but I, along with others I know, think the units are way overpriced, and unless I was planning to make a living with one, there is absolutely no need for me to spend that kind of money on it.

As for the new items I have been selling, there is a valid reason for most of them. The sluice, backpack, dredge, and spiral wheel were items I was not going to use. I had plans of visiting the San Gabriel River to do some sluicing but I do not feel like dealing with a bunch of high and mighty forest rangers harassing me for no reason the way they have been doing to others. I plan on keeping my Eureka Gold if I get this 3000 so I have both a VLF and a PI machine. The guns I have on the forum I have had for over a year and have only used each one once. I would get much more use out of a good detector or two than I do those 2 firearms. Thanks for your input.

Respectfully,

Chris

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Hi Chris,

I see you've been posting allot of late, seeking advice and selling quite a few "new" prospecting items.

The reason I say that is you seem like an impulse buyer.

From what I've seen in the classifieds you've taken a loss on quite a few items.

You've likely heard that guns don't kill, people do. The same hold true with detecting.

My advice is to join a prospecting club in your area and spend a few months learning how to use your Eureka Gold and more importantly how to prospect for gold.

As for the 3000 I have one (as a backup) and still use it, but would not recommend one over a GPX. Save your $ for a 5000, join a club and educate yourself.

Respectfully,

Chris Porter

PS

Super tune your Eureka,

Ground balance in all 3 freq. starting at the lowest and ending with the highest.

This method will ensure the most depth and stability.

PPS

Damn you Frank, I spit coffee (laughing) all over my keyboard after reading between the lines of "Get it from the horses mouth"

Hi Chris,

I have a ML Eureka Gold and I read your comment about "Super Tuning". How do you do this? I have a trip to Co. coming up the 1st week in June and I would like my Eureka Gold to be as tuned as possible. Thanks

Bill

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Chris C,

I just don't think you'd be happy with a 3000, you seem like a person who likes to have the best equipment possible. So thats why I recommend waiting till you know if the hobby is right for you.

The 3000 will struggle with hotrocks and at times can be quite unstable (EMI). A 4000 or newer will run smooth as butter in areas that a 3000 will struggle, really the difference is like night and day.

But in all reality you wont loose $ on that 3000 it will hold that value for a few more year.

I wish you the best of luck!

Please feel free to contact me, and if your ever up in northern NV I'll take you out for a hunt!

Chris P.

Hi Chris,

I have a ML Eureka Gold and I read your comment about "Super Tuning". How do you do this? I have a trip to Co. coming up the 1st week in June and I would like my Eureka Gold to be as tuned as possible. Thanks

Bill

Hi Bill,

Super tuning is ground balancing all 3 frequencies.

Refer to your manual for detailed instructions on how to ground balance.

In a nutshell, turn on the unit select tracking, normal and all metal (discrimination off, boost off) and the lowest freq. pump the coil up and down (from about 1 to 4 inches) from the ground till the threshold tone smoothes out. Repeat this in each freq.

Pm me if you like, I'll give you my phone # and talk you through the process.

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Chris:

Get the machine you can afford....go out and enjoy it and enjoy life :)

Have fun in the fields.

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Chris C,

I just don't think you'd be happy with a 3000, you seem like a person who likes to have the best equipment possible. So thats why I recommend waiting till you know if the hobby is right for you.

The 3000 will struggle with hotrocks and at times can be quite unstable (EMI). A 4000 or newer will run smooth as butter in areas that a 3000 will struggle, really the difference is like night and day.

But in all reality you wont loose $ on that 3000 it will hold that value for a few more year.

I wish you the best of luck!

Please feel free to contact me, and if your ever up in northern NV I'll take you out for a hunt!

Chris P.

Hi Bill,

Super tuning is ground balancing all 3 frequencies.

Refer to your manual for detailed instructions on how to ground balance.

In a nutshell, turn on the unit select tracking, normal and all metal (discrimination off, boost off) and the lowest freq. pump the coil up and down (from about 1 to 4 inches) from the ground till the threshold tone smoothes out. Repeat this in each freq.

Pm me if you like, I'll give you my phone # and talk you through the process.

Thanks for the info. I will pm you.

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